Відео

Find anything better since this video?

I just have a single 4x5 field camera. Most likely it will last all my life.

Is a baseball sized dent required to properly light the model? 🤣

Marissa should be a photographer in her own right.

wow....

I never liked to he a customer say, "I thought you said". This is why I document on paper. Documentation beats Conversation. Some people you just can't satisfy no matter what.

Nice review. What accessory is there for attaching a skrim (handle) to the super clamp?

😀😀😀😀👍👍👍👍👍👍👍

Daniel, apart from Lovegrove, I think your videos are the best on YT on the subject of lightning. Really great. I would like to thank you very much for the content. It has helped me a lot. Thank you, sir!

Great video! Thanks a lot

You brought the puppet back lol. I love it

Hi Daniel, @vivianiacoboni6273 0 seconds ago Great video! I love how sturdy and these clamps are. Question: I need the super clamp to grip the square pole of the "Neewer Table Top Rig System" (Awesome). I attached the clamp securely. But....What attachment would you recommend in order to put my 7 inch monitor hanging off that clamp. Some videos show the monitor hanging upside down. I want it coming off the clamp right side up with the screw that goes into the monitor pointing up? I just am not experienced at all in all of this. Any suggestions would be helpful. Thank you for a very nice video. I have very small space too. I am trying to do top down top down art videos. Thank you again for a very informative video!

Thanks for everything that you do. I think of you as a mentor.

What an amazing video, superb!

Thank you I found these very helpful :)

Absolutely fantastic vid. Your explanation of incident metering vs. reflective metering was awesome. I'm always looking for better ways to explain photography things to people and your content has helped me so much with that. Thank you so much. You've seen and heard this a billion times but I'll say it anyway - you and Marisa are an amazing team! You're one of the first photographers I ever subbed to on UA-cam and your channel is STILL one of my favorites I come back to over and over again :)

you should do a tutorial on gradient light

So, aiming the b flash at the background is enough to illuminate the bottle?

You are simply the best, Daniel! --- Thanks so much for sharing all your expertise/knowledge.

All solid advice :)

All solid advice :)

I like the fact that you include Marisa, she's used to photoshoot but with a learner point of view. First time I see that on a training video and I found it very educational. Better then some questions ask on a chat during live show that are most of the time ether too basic or just funny comments. Here I see someone learning from a pro and I really enjoy that. You're a very great trainer Daniel...and photographer! Sylvain from Montréal.

❤

Thank so much for this great video!!!

Amazing info

Hey Daniel, wondering what autopole did you get for your setup?

Found this very helpful🙂

35mm film shot vertically is roughly equal to APS-C sensor so 35mm would be around 50mm - am i misunderstanding?

Nice video Daniel! Just ordered my first superclamp to DIY a cheap copy stand out of this, a length of pipe, a flange and an old piece of counter top. Might pick up a few more of these clamps, based on your suggestions!

Please Daniel, do a video on lighting ratios!

Yes want to know more

Sometimes I get frustrated with my photography, but all I have to do is watch you Daniel, and I want to immediately go out and get my camera! You make photography a joy!

How wonderful is Marisa's attitude. Bravo.

It's a no brainer--a light meter.

Which stands would you recommend for being able to set up a 10 foot backdrop on location?

Hi Daniel thanks for this awesome video, I currently own all second hand Nikon camera bodies and lenses and I also have a second hand Sigma 85mm f1.4 lens I am very happy with all of this gear. Thanks from Australia

Thanks for sharing.

A light meter in a studio environment is not a big deal for single portrait work, it only take seconds to dial in a digital camera when tethered. I learnt this from you a couple of years ago when I first discovered your channel and have since become reasonably proficient in low key portrait photograph, it has boosted my confidence no end, in fact I am now taking a photographic course and working towards a diploma, thank you.

I act professional with models when doing personal projects along time ago. I switch to product photography as a hobby since I am retired.

When I switch to E-TTL Canon flash with a pair of 580ex flashes in 2004 I realized the best gauge for exposure and lighting ratios were white and black terry wash rags draped on a stand where the subject would stand and the histogram. It was so simple, fast and accurate I also started using it with my studio lights. 1) Set aperture for desired DOF on face (e.g. f/8 to keep entire head in focus) 2) Turn on FILL centered on camera axis first and raise power until detail is seen in black towel and its histogram spike kisses left side of graph. 3) Turn on KEY and raise its power until highlights on towel clip in the JPG playback and then back off until they don’t with histogram kissing the right side of graph That baseline approach fits a full range from black and white at the distance of the stand to the range of sensor EXACTLY. If you then measure manual flash with an incident meter correctly (dome down pointed at each light separately) you will find the KEY light about 2x brighter (1 f/stop) in incident strength. From that full range baseline for ‘softer’ looking lighting just started with more fill beyond the point where detail in black towel is seen, rendering it gray instead of back. For ‘harder’ (darker) shadows start with less fill sacrificing detail. I always set lights to record the full range and made the adjustments from that baseline with LEVELS, CURVES plus burning and dodging in Photoshop. How fast highlights become dark shadow is function of inverse-square fall off. An easy way to remember how light falls off from source is to memorize the f/stop numbers: 32, 22, 16, 11, 8, 5.6, 4, 2.8, 2, 1.4, 1 If you moved a light in from 32 feet or meters in those distance increments the intensity will change by 2x or 1-f/stop with each move of the light forward and it will fall off on a subjects face the same way. If you want very gradual shadow gradients keep the lights further away. If you want a very sharp drop off in intensity then you need to have the lights closer to the face of the subject. The challenge for hobbyists is having enough space to move the lights back far enough to get the desired transitions without the light spilling all over the room bouncing off ceiling and walls creating a muddle of the lighting pattern. If you really want to understand what your light modifiers are doing and how distance affects shadow gradients take a subject outdoors at night with a pair of speed lights or your studio lights and compare the results with the same set-up indoors with spill fill bouncing around the room.

A meter is only going to be accurate if you are using T-stops rather than f-stops. Only cinematography lens have T-stop marking.

Thanks for another great video. In my opinion TTL+Tethering in C1 and you’re good to go. You touched on the subject of using spot metering to get exposure. That would be a great and very useful video if you made it 😉

With digitall cameras light metter is something that you don't need to shoot with flash. Shoot, check on screen, apply correction and shoot again.

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Which is better? The hammer or the screwdriver? I prefer Daniel 's point of view over others who never need a light meter. But have to add that my camera has a metering mode "highlight-weighted" that - while not idiot proof - gives excellent starting point exposures with zero loss of highlight detail.

Fundamentalist point: one is light metering the other is subject metering😊

a light meter is always the best choice when you HAVE a choice. but today with mirrorless cameras the ttl is almost as good. when it comes to complex lighting setups, i use a light meter, it’s safer and i know im going to get the shot ‘in camera.’

Great video as usual and very good information on how to do it.👍

Great Tutorial !!!! If we do not do this on a regular basis,, this is a great reminder how to get Pro Photos,, with Flash :) :) :)

Thanks for the great info, Daniel. I've used assistants in the past but have never been sure if you should specifically bill your client for them or just keep the payment of an assistant separate from the client invoicing.